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  #11  
Old 04-30-2012, 08:09 PM
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WOW! Thanks mike! Awesome! One question for you is how difficult was it to get that clip back into place on the check-valve?

Also I have pulled my CV out several times and soaked it in super clean over night then I just take it to my buddies shop and blow the heck out of it with his professional super powerful air gun till he starts to laugh at me like I'm crazy and till there is no more super clean coming out of it.

what do you all think is better and why mikes heated ultra-sonic cleaner or my simple over night soaking it in Super clean and then blowing the heck out of it with an air gun? (NOTE: I have no idea what a heated ultra-sonic cleaner is or does or how it works)

Thanks for the awesome post and all the gr8 pics!
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2012, 08:12 PM
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Also you say you put the purge solenoid in a vice sounds scary to me! I mean isn't that thing sensitive? - I guess ya just got to be careful...?
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puresoul108 View Post
WOW! Thanks mike! Awesome! One question for you is how difficult was it to get that clip back into place on the check-valve?

Also I have pulled my CV out several times and soaked it in super clean over night then I just take it to my buddies shop and blow the heck out of it with his professional super powerful air gun till he starts to laugh at me like I'm crazy and till there is no more super clean coming out of it.

what do you all think is better and why mikes heated ultra-sonic cleaner or my simple over night soaking it in Super clean and then blowing the heck out of it with an air gun? (NOTE: I have no idea what a heated ultra-sonic cleaner is or does or how it works)

Thanks for the awesome post and all the gr8 pics!
The superclean you're using is clearly a more aggressive cleaner than whatever is in my ultrasonic cleaner, but you almost need it. If I put these parts in the cleaner I'm using without disassembling, they would NEVER get cleaned properly. I don't really think it's the physical chemical you're using as much as it is the disassembly then cleaning. The superclean may just be harsh enough to get into places a normal cleaner wouldn't, without taking everything apart.

An ultrasonic cleaner is basically a tank of some sort of cleaning agent that sends ultrasonic waves throughout the liquid. Used for the delicate cleaning procedures of many electronics etc etc. The heated portion just aids in cleaning. Here's some more reading on those: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaner

I wont say one way is better than the other. Obviously if your way works, then what else could you ask for? I just have been unsuccessful at getting either the CV or PV to work just by soaking them, but it's not to say the one's I've cleaned were better or worse to begin with too.

As for assembling the CV, even easier getting the clip back in than it is taking it out. When you take it apart it will make more sense, I'm not great at explaining it, and of course I never took a picture of the clip. I will try to do that now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puresoul108 View Post
Also you say you put the purge solenoid in a vice sounds scary to me! I mean isn't that thing sensitive? - I guess ya just got to be careful...?

Like I said, don't squash the thing, just need to keep it from rotating. Not sure how sensitive it is, but I bench test it before it goes back on the truck anyways to ensure operation. All it is, is a big magnet with an on/off switch going to it more or less. It's either pulling the plunger in or pushing it out. Same concept as the check valve except we electronically take control of it's operation.

Hope that cleared some questions up?
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Cause his job is to make oil and break things.
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2012, 02:21 PM
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Maybe this will help clear some questions up further. Here is a picture of the "clip" that is removed from the check valve for dis-assembly. The portion circled in "BLUE" is the end that you would pry up with the "pick" initially to start removing it. As you twist the top portion of the check valve, this blue portion will start riding out of the check valve on that pick. Once it circles all the way around and is mostly out of the check valve, the portion in "RED" is all that is left holding it in, just gently pry up and pull this out of it's "hole" in the check valve. This just "locates" the clip and is what allows us to rotate it and force the clip around. So when you go to re-assemble this, pop the portion circled in "RED" back in it's hole, and just simply rotate the check valve halves again to pull that clip back in. Wha-la!


Make sense? Kind of hard to explain... might have to take a video for re-assembly.
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Cause his job is to make oil and break things.

Last edited by Mdub707; 05-01-2012 at 02:24 PM.
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  #15  
Old 05-01-2012, 04:29 PM
slayvok slayvok is offline
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Nice write up, well done and second that sticky!
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  #16  
Old 05-01-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mdub707 View Post
Make sense? Kind of hard to explain... might have to take a video for re-assembly.
THanks so much for all that detail I think you are awesome at explaining things! And the pictures and everything are gr8!

Thanks so much! Stuff like this (in my opinion) should be in a special place where all maintenance type stuff is, and people can check in and go down a list of stuff like this and know how to take care of their V3 and system. This will help a lot of folks!
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  #17  
Old 07-19-2012, 05:55 AM
sarahlee sarahlee is offline
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Default I need beta on how to replace a check valve

Hi there,
I am not super familiar with my veggiestroke system, unfortunately... but I do think I have a check valve problem... I have had one before.
My green light comes on as usual when the system is ready. I have a Quadzilla Comander that gauges the fuel pressure. my truck is a steady 45-50 on diesel, but when it turns over it drops to 0 so I know it is off of diesel and on wvo. But now the light goes on and the pressure drops to the 30s and then bounces all over the place. I then turn it off and run on diesel... but if I left it on, it would still do its delayed shut off. Hmmm.
Do you think I need a check valve??
I have ordered on, just in case. The last time I did this, the fellow in St. Helens fixed if for me. I should have been paying better attention.
What does my system really look like?
where do I start?
How dO I know which hoses and such are my system and not other hoses?
How do I follow them along to said check valves?
what does a check valve look like?
how do I take them out?
what tools will I need?
will oil spurt out?
Any help would be very very much appreciated.
If there is anyone in Central Oregon that would be willing to help me in person, that would be even better.
I run my organic farm with this truck and I really need to get it back on grease before I get over run with my oil contracts.
Thank you very much for your help,
sarahlee
sarahlee.lawrence@gmail.com
541-279-084one
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  #18  
Old 07-19-2012, 10:07 AM
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Hawaiian Diesel Hawaiian Diesel is offline
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Best you start your own thread. When you do, explain what you mean by pressure all over the place is. Could just be air in your SVO line. Try doing a manual purge for 30 seconds or so with key on / engine off while in manual mode. What pressure are you seeing? That pressure is your SVO.
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Last edited by Hawaiian Diesel; 07-19-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2013, 09:17 PM
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Vergie2010 Vergie2010 is offline
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Default Purge Valve cleaning....lost the washer and need o-ring replacements

Mike-

Do you know where you can get replacements for the O-rings on these valves and the washer that sits in the bottom of the plunger. I lost that and ended up buying a new purge solenoid-valve cause my old one wasn't working properly. If I had these peices it would run fine...like new since I cleaned.

Thanks

Trent
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:50 PM
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Puresoul108 Puresoul108 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vergie2010 View Post
Mike-

Do you know where you can get replacements for the O-rings on these valves and the washer that sits in the bottom of the plunger. I lost that and ended up buying a new purge solenoid-valve cause my old one wasn't working properly. If I had these peices it would run fine...like new since I cleaned.

Thanks

Trent
I sent you a PM about the O-rings and as far as the washer goes maybe try mcmaster.com or else maybe someone has a old wore out one that they can part out to you....
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