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Old 11-16-2019, 04:08 AM
kneedragger79 kneedragger79 is offline
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Question Dry WVO

This is something that is completely new to me. For quite a while I have been a secret lurker about this whole burning WVO as a fuel source. However the great thing is I can now bounce ideas off these boards.

The time came when I was about to pull the triggerand buy a centrifuge but right before I did, I read about "drying WVO."

These boards seem to have less traffic than during primetime, but I still have to ask. Other than heating and settling the oil, does drying the oil work with very little total effort? Anywhere I can read more about this? Is it as clean as it seems?

I was going to build a setup similar to this - https://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/dryingtank.php - or buy parts cheaper if I can, but essentially copy this idea. Anywhere cheaper to buy but still support an American company?

Sorry for twenty questions.

I would ask the man, Jay, but he runs this business and he has a full-time job.
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Last edited by kneedragger79; 11-17-2019 at 06:26 AM. Reason: Spelling fail
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Old 11-16-2019, 01:43 PM
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greaseguy greaseguy is offline
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Default Drying wvo

This is not necessary for wvo. I think if you make biodiesel there is a wash process but with good clear wvo there is little to no water. You can test your oil with a hot frying pan. Get a fry pan smoking hot. Pour in a small amount of your wvo like 1 oz. if oil splatters or you see bubbles thatís water. If if just smokes and does nothing then you have no water. If your oil has water you can just heat and settle or even easier donít use it and get better oil.
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Old 11-16-2019, 01:51 PM
Cashflo Cashflo is offline
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I used to buy extra oil from a guy that made Bio. He had that setup from Utahbio. He ran his oil through that setup before bio conversion and what ever step it was need during conversion.
The oil i bought from him was always prefiltered though 10mic spinon filters and "predried" with UtahBio setup.
I ran his oil though my Simple Centrifuge and after 100 gallon still extracted teaspoon or so of water and maybe 1/8inch of veggie fudge in bowl.
After that everything went through my full Heat n' Settle then through the veggie-go-round "fuge".

I learned never to trust anyone elses cleaning process.
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Old 11-16-2019, 02:20 PM
Cashflo Cashflo is offline
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I have 2 barrels welded together with cone bottom. 2 of the lowest watt density water heater elements wired 120v. One that is few inch above the cone and another maybe 5-8 inch higher.
Enclosed with inner and outer layer of double bubble foil insulation with r13 i think between.

I heat to 180 and maintain for 2-3 days depending on outside temp fluctuations. My settle tank is in a carport. In the winter the oil will drop in temp faster so i let ride at 180 maybe another day.
After 24 hrs i drain the bottom 4 gallons let it set a few more days drain another gallon. Then i empty the barrel from a port that is same level as the bottom element.
Whats left below the bottom element goes in a seperate heat and settle setup that only has 1 barrel. When second barrel is full i run it through same process.

Settled oil goes to a tote until the tote is full then it gets ran through the centrifuge at 3-5gallons per hour.

This has given me consistent results even when there was 5 gallons of water discovered after it was pump from collection barrel.

FYI always assume if there is more than few gallons of water per barrel, oil is milky, oil smells or has bubbles that rise when container is thumped that they were dumping cleaing and or rinsing water from the fryers and that it will have strong caustic cleaners in it. This should be dumped in a rendering companys dumpster. That stuff will eat aluminum.

Also if your running through a gravity fuge at slow speed and cant pass a hot pan test after multple passes then you have emulsified water in your oil usually due to those cleaners they use. It should be dumped as well as you will never get the water out without crazy vacuum dewatering setup combined with distilling.
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:21 PM
kneedragger79 kneedragger79 is offline
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Default Am I making it too complicated?

Does the centrifuge from Utah BioDiesel Supply have no real benefit other than just speeding up the settle process? Should I really just save that money and stick with heating and settling the oil? (I'm calling bs on my thinking)

Is it just me or am I trying to make things way too complicated? I'm NOT worried about making bio-diesel. I just want to make sure the oil gets clean (as everyone wants to do) and it just seems like settling oil cannot be that simple.

Then comes the issue of the wintertime. I live in the lower part of Jay's home state and we don't get much for snow (simply because of elevation) so it gets cold enough to cause water to freeze but I'm kind of wondering the best way to heat the oil during that time. Right now I live in a condo with no garage to heat the oil in. Do I just need to use a heater for a day or two before it's time to fill up the grease? Here is my thoughts - I have some bare land where I can put up a carport and wire electricity. Do I just wire the carport for 110V/220V outlets and use that to run a heater in the drums of oil? Then simply collect some oil and let it settle over the winter?

It just seems like I'm kind of lost

Thank you for the help and advice!!
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A 2003 F250 XLT "bullet-proofed" - she runs like a raped ape
A 2005 Excursion Limited "bullet-proofed" - is pretty quick for weighing 9,200 lbs.




A large part of me wants to run my F250 with a twin-turbo setup; but can I justify the cost while not pulling the cab?

Of course I say "Yes I can, oh yes I can" yet my wife will say
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Old 11-16-2019, 11:21 PM
Cashflo Cashflo is offline
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Well. If your oil is sourced only from someplace that frys ONLY unbattered fries then as long as you heat and settle the crap out to make sure it passes Hot Pan Test (HPT) you should be ok.

The fuge process is more of a polish than filtering. Its also a good indicator of how clean your oil is after main filtering steps.


The Greasy Life is not for someone without a decent workspace.

FYI pertaining to your comment on putting a carport on some land. Bears love this stuff.
And rodents love peanut oil.

This is a much better machine than the WVO designs sold at UtahBio

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/ordering.html
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:25 PM
kneedragger79 kneedragger79 is offline
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Default the help is appreciated

Cashflo, again I want to say thank you for your time and advice.

The sources I'm looking to get oil from are burger joints/restaurants. So I'm there will be more than unbattered fries.

As for a place to do these steps, my uncle will hopefully let me use his land if I can talk him into trying to use the WVO too. He has two 5.9 Dodges so hopefully he will let me use his land if I trade him for converting his trucks after he sees how awesome the BFT kits are.

So will I need three large containers for the oil - 1) to dump the collected oil in as it settles for a few months. 2) a container to pump clean oil into once it has been settled and polished. 3) a final container that has all the crap that is collected in the cleaning process. Am I missing a step?

Then once I start collecting more oil, I can store the oil in totes that are a couple hundred gallons in size? Do you have any suggestions as to where I can pick these totes up? Do restaurants use them when they buy oil new and they simply drain oil put as it's needed? I guess I'm just trying to learn where to get the few hundred gallon totes for cheap
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A 2003 F250 XLT "bullet-proofed" - she runs like a raped ape
A 2005 Excursion Limited "bullet-proofed" - is pretty quick for weighing 9,200 lbs.




A large part of me wants to run my F250 with a twin-turbo setup; but can I justify the cost while not pulling the cab?

Of course I say "Yes I can, oh yes I can" yet my wife will say
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