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  #81  
Old 03-14-2016, 08:23 PM
AzDave AzDave is offline
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What triggers the red lights is the board receiving power when the key is on. That can be done by putting the switch in manual with the key on, engine does not have to be running . This turns on the red lights. Turning the switch off or switching the key off starts the purge and after run count downs. The lights go off when the timers expire. Dave
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Last edited by AzDave; 03-14-2016 at 11:24 PM.
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  #82  
Old 03-14-2016, 10:36 PM
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What triggers the red lights is the board receiving power when the key is on. That can be done by putting the switch in auto or manual with the key on, engine does not have to be running . This turns on the red lights. Turning the switch off or switching the key off starts the purge and after run count downs. The lights go off when the timers expire. Dave
Interesting. I was testing the truck on Saturday, and I was watching the red LEDs on the timer card while I was driving. The LED lights didn't turn on until the truck was about at the temperature (just by time driving and looking at the OEM temp gauge on the dash) where the Auto light would usually come on. They do not turn on with the system in Auto, just in Manual. Could this be another problem that I'm having? It falls in line with Clay's explanation of the lights coming on once the temperature switch hits 140*.
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  #83  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:16 PM
AzDave AzDave is offline
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Just revisit the test please. Switching the switch on to turn on the trigger cards sends the power from the red key on wire to the control board to turn them on. Cutting the power starts the timers. So check your red wire connection to verify if it gets power with key on.

Again, key on,engine off, warm or cold truck. Turn main V3 switch to manual and both card lights should come on.

Bottom board should be purge and top board after run. Sometimes the bottom red light can be hard to see.

If it does not work this way there is something wrong.

I retested this just before I posted. I have the control unit with switches and power supply and volt meters on my desk.

Dave
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Last edited by AzDave; 03-14-2016 at 11:23 PM.
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  #84  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:32 PM
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Put your old switch cover on. The custom cover I did was a big mistake as I did not understand about both switch lights being on in auto cold or hot. The upper bulb is never seen as the stock cover covers that light.

The green light that indicates system on when the pressure switch sees 55 psi of veggie is the bottom light being powered by the white wire.

I really confused things with those covers. I do not think I sold any. Just gave them away with orders like yours.

You may have nothing wrong at all. All week end this has bugged me. Lets keep going until you are up.

The red lights do go on in manual right away. In auto they do only arm when temp switch closes. In my test set up I had the temp switch closed. I just reran the test with switch open like on cold engine.(Clay you are correct)

I think I am about ready to do a Youtube video of the procedures of how everything works soon.
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Last edited by AzDave; 03-14-2016 at 11:38 PM.
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  #85  
Old 03-15-2016, 01:50 AM
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Ha! Sounds like you had a good weekend! You've been extremely helpful and I appreciate that Dave! The double lights on the switch didn't screw me up too bad, I'm at least partially intelligent so I figured that out pretty quick!
Given everything I've posted, does it sound to you like the pressure switch is what's keeping the green light from going on? I have a list of things to check from here:
1. Make sure fuel is getting to the filter. If not the filter, then the inlet of the V3 from the tank on the veggie hose. If not there, make sure the pick up tube is clean of debris
2. Change the pressure switch when it comes in. Sounds easier then doing all the testing!
3. Set my timer cards. Run time is only at 50 seconds. Purge is at 12, so I'll keep it there. Also going to pull the return hose and make sure the system is purging properly.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:31 PM
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The red lights do go on in manual right away. In auto they do only arm when temp switch closes. In my test set up I had the temp switch closed. I just reran the test with switch open like on cold engine.(Clay you are correct)
Even a blind hog can root out a kernal of corn once in a while...lol
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  #87  
Old 03-26-2016, 03:23 PM
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I installed the new pressure switch yesterday. Checked the filter and it was full of diesel (i put about 25 gallons of diesel in the WVO tank to test). My fiancÚ drove the truck to work over a mountain pass this morning, and the light still won't come on in the automatic mode. The only thing I have noticed is the stock coolant temp gauge on the dash doesn't get quite as hot as mine-I know exactly when the green light will come on in my old truck when I watch that gauge, and in this truck the gauge doesn't quite climb to the same point. I have seen the LED lights come on, and my understanding is once these lights come on with the switch in auto mode, the temperature requirement has been met. Then it's waiting for the pressure to get up to 55 PSI or higher.

I'm at a loss on what else to do to get the Vegistroke kit up and running! What else can I do/test/etc.?
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Old 03-27-2016, 05:35 PM
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Can you adjust the pressure regulator on the manifold (turn it higher). Sounds like its not making enough pressure. Unless I have forgotten something in this thread, I need to re-read it I suppose.
loosen the lock nut and screw the adjuster all the way clockwise then back it out 2.5 turns and that should put it in the 70-75 psi range. Or you can pull the fuse to the d2 pump, turn the v3 on manual and read the wvo pressure that way to ensure its above 60 (or whatever the threshold is). If its below 75, the simply adjust the regulator a little at a time (clockwise) to get it to 75 and then try it again in auto mode with d2 pump powered back on.

Last edited by Clay; 03-27-2016 at 05:39 PM.
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  #89  
Old 03-27-2016, 06:04 PM
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Can you adjust the pressure regulator on the manifold (turn it higher). Sounds like its not making enough pressure. Unless I have forgotten something in this thread, I need to re-read it I suppose.
loosen the lock nut and screw the adjuster all the way clockwise then back it out 2.5 turns and that should put it in the 70-75 psi range. Or you can pull the fuse to the d2 pump, turn the v3 on manual and read the wvo pressure that way to ensure its above 60 (or whatever the threshold is). If its below 75, the simply adjust the regulator a little at a time (clockwise) to get it to 75 and then try it again in auto mode with d2 pump powered back on.
Thanks Clay-I hadn't thought of that! The past few days the LEDs on the Timer Card haven't been coming on either. I'm not sure if that affects anything or not?
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  #90  
Old 03-28-2016, 02:43 AM
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I turned the FPR up and still nothing. The switch on the dash got hot to the touch and apparently there was a bit of a "hot plastic smell." (According to my fiancÚ as she was driving the truck). Green light did not turn on in auto.
I read that too high of a pressure can also cause the light to not turn on, so I turned the FPR counter clockwise all the way then 3 full turns in. This is the correct setting, right?
I'll report back tomorrow and see if the 3 full turns does the trick. Any further recommendations are welcome!
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