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  #71  
Old 03-13-2016, 12:11 AM
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More testing. Drove the truck, and while the light on the "Auto" side comes on no matter what, the light that's on the "Manual" side of the switch never came on (unless I flip the switch to that setting).

However, the LED lights on the timer card did come on, and the truck went through it's auto shut down and continued to run after I turned the key to "OFF". I do have to mess with the timing-I remember a thread somewhere here regarding the dip switches, as I turned the run time switch to the max level and it was shutting off at about 58 seconds. I'm shooting for 90 seconds, correct?

So, I believe the kit is working! I just don't have a light indicating when it's on or off. I did crawl under the truck while it was running and the LEDs on the timer card were on, and I think the diesel pump was off, and the veggie pump was on. Kind of hard to tell though with all of the other vibrations going on with a running truck.

What else can I do to get this switch working properly so I know when the WVO kicks on?
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:35 AM
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Even more testing. Unplugged the known working switches from my old truck and plugged them into the new truck with the new install. No green light in "Auto" after driving to get the truck hot, but LEDs on the timer card turned on. Green light would turn on in "Manual" setting.

So, at this point, I feel confident that there's a problem somewhere giving power to the green light in Auto mode, however I have no clue how to trouble shoot it.

I'm going to test the new switches in my old truck tomorrow. I plugged them in, and they turn on with no power in the Auto and Manual modes with a known working system. I'll find out tomorrow when I drive my truck what happens when I turn the switch to Auto!

Can somebody explain to me how to test the Auto mode to get a green light? I got this explanation from Jay: "In auto mode, the light on the switch is fed by the white wire from the timer card, which is fed by the pressure switch. (So, basically, when the pressure switch is over 55psi, the power from the diesel pump is diverted to the light in your contura switch... When below 55psi, power is shifted back to your D2 pump)."
But I don't know what exactly to do to test it!
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Old 03-13-2016, 05:25 PM
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Please see my post in tech section on checking pressure switch. I will be back home tomorrow to help more.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:07 PM
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I just found out that the top light is on but just covered by the old style switch covers. I am experimenting with blocking out my covers and will be sending out a free one to anyone that has a set. This was my oversight. Sorry to have you chasing your tail for something that is not a problem. Dave
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  #75  
Old 03-14-2016, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzDave View Post
I just found out that the top light is on but just covered by the old style switch covers. I am experimenting with blocking out my covers and will be sending out a free one to anyone that has a set. This was my oversight. Sorry to have you chasing your tail for something that is not a problem. Dave
I tested one of the new switches on my old truck, and when the kit kicks on in Auto both lights are illuminated. Just an FYI.

Still trying to figure out why I can't get the green light to come on in Auto. Hopefully the new pressure switch does the trick!

Where does the temperature switch come into play with turning on the green light in auto? What happens when the temperature switch is faulty?

One more question-when the red LEDs turn on while driving in Auto, should the green light turn on at the same time? I'm assuming the pressure switch also gives the LEDs in the timer card the power to turn them on? Or is that separate?
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by biostroker View Post

Where does the temperature switch come into play with turning on the green light in auto? What happens when the temperature switch is faulty?
With a failed temp switch, the system will not power up at all in AUTO.
One more question-when the red LEDs turn on while driving in Auto, should the green light turn on at the same time? I'm assuming the pressure switch also gives the LEDs in the timer card the power to turn them on? Or is that separate?
I believe the timer cards are getting power through the temp switch. Not the pressure switch.
...
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  #77  
Old 03-14-2016, 07:50 PM
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Thanks Clay! Helps with the troubleshooting if you understand what kind of outcome a working or faulty component has!
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:53 PM
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Thanks Clay! Helps with the troubleshooting if you understand what kind of outcome a working or faulty component has!
I'm not certain of my last statement on the temp switch powering the red lights but I am farely sure power must go through the temp switch before anything turns on in AUTO. I do know 100% that the pressure switch has nothing to do with those red lights, only the green light.
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:13 PM
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The Green light in Auto is the Bottom bulb (same bulb as manual power) getting power. The upper light is powered by one wire and the bottom bulb by another. So green light on is manual on bulb receiving power from white wire.

I am mounting a V3 control unit to a board with switches and leads to V3 for test purposes for a work bench set up. It is by doing this I have learned even more.

How about this one. The whole time you are running on veggie the purge switch is getting 12 volts from the control board . Any time the purge light is on the purge valve is getting voltage! It gets its ground thru the Veggie Pump windings. So that ground is disconnected when the veggie pump is getting power. I saw this on the wiring diagram but have now proved it with my testing setup. If you guys want we can make a separate thread on that one.

Dave
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  #80  
Old 03-14-2016, 08:16 PM
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Clay is right. The temp switch provides power to the Veggie Pump relay to trigger it to turn on when it sees over 140 degrees or so.
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