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Old 01-22-2017, 04:19 PM
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Default cold start

My 1999 f250 with 394,xxx has been sitting for about three weeks in below 32 degree weather. I put it back together yesterday and turned the key and she turned over but no fire at all, not even smoke from the tail pipe. plugged in for about 20 minutes and got a couple of sputters. after about 1.5 hours she fired first crack. my question is, what does the 1.5 hours of heat do to motor to make it fire?
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:33 PM
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Compression ignition needs a minimum air temperature to work. Properly functioning glow plugs hit 1800*F in 2 secs. That glowing hot plug heats the air in combustion chamber like the elements in your oven heat it up. The block heater is 1000watts and heats the coolant below the heads. This heats the coolant around the combustion chamber and in the heads.

These trucks are designed to start to -10*F without plugging in.

The most common failure point of the GP system is the GP relay. It is the smaller of the 2 relays/solenoids on the pass-side valve cover.

I strongly recommend everyone 'upgrade' to a Denso starter eventually. These monster 5.4hp gear reduction starters spin the engine over FAST and draw less amps while doing it. They are also user-rebuild able and will be the last starter you ever buy.
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Old 01-22-2017, 05:03 PM
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Default Cold start

This truck will start in the cold without being plugged in if I drive it consistently. Usually if it sits for extended period of time it needs to be plugged in but not exactly sure on length of time. It's not plugged in now and it started right up first shot. I do plug trick in every night so it's warm in the morning and it seems to be less hard on the motor. Truck has new starter new batteries and a monster relay and I would guess close to 100 percent function Gp system I am just wondering why they is a certain number of days and then it needs an hour or two of being plugged to fire. She starts great without being plugged in but truck needs to be run consistently. She maybe ran for 10 minutes yesterday and today starts without being plugged in. Yesterday when it wouldn't start it seemed more fuel related because I got zero smoke from the tailpipe. Does the heat wake up tired injectors?
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:04 PM
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How long are you cycling the GPs before you try and crank it over? If its real cold, wait to start it for up too 1 minute and see if that helps. If your GPs are all working, this should do it.
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:54 PM
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WTS light stays on a fixed amount of time, but GP's may be hot up to 2 mins in coooold weather.

The injectors use high pressure oil to drive a plunger that forces the fuel out at 7x the oil pressure. (Upwards of 20k psi fuel pressure)

Cold/viscous oil doesn't work as well. That's why the engine sounds BAD when it cranks from really cold. The injectors aren't firing optimally until the oil warms up a little. The block heater thins the oil.

5w40 synthetic oil makes a big difference in cold weather operation,since it remains less viscous at low temps.

The PCM needs 10.5v while cranking to send power to injectors. ICP (high pressure oil pressure) also needs to be 500psi before they will fire.

A scan tool or something like Torque app can give you this info.
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:23 PM
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Default Injector shims

My truck would not start in the cold after sitting for a couple days. Truck ran fine once warmed up but tough when cold. I stumbled across something about shimming injector armatures which I ended up doing. After completing shims and new glow plugs truck fired up after sitting two days which it would not do before without being plugged in. It ran smooth like it was running for days. All my armatures needed .0002 - .0003. The solenoids were then shimmed .0003 - .0004. I havenít driven truck yet due to getting front drive shaft rebuilt at this time also. These shims are nothing anyone talks about but so far I am
Impressed and I will let folks know how things are after truck goes for a drive. My truck has 420,000 and had two reman injectors but all other looked to be original
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Old 01-27-2018, 06:54 PM
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The down side to shims is that they reduce the travel of the poppet valve. The reduced poppet valve travel means less oil to the intensifier piston. This restricts the full operation/optimal function of the injector. Machining of the injector body accounts for wear of the poppet valve while maintaining full poppet valve travel.
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Old 01-27-2018, 08:46 PM
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Default The down side

I am guessing you are saying that the cheap fix will help me with cold starts but the draw back of maybe loosing a bit of power on the top end? Are there long term issues that will happen due to shimming armatures and solenoids?
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:58 PM
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Yes, raising the armature plate to allow the oil to escape from under will alleviate the hydraulic suction force of the cold viscous oil between the armature plate and adapter plate. I can't think of any long term issues if they are all shimmed the same distance, but they have been taken out of their engineered design.
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