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Old 11-18-2015, 03:05 AM
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Default Installing a used V3 Kit...

In the near future I'm going to install a used V3 kit. This will be the 5th kit I've installed so I'm familiar with the install process, but the rest were all brand new. Here are my questions:
1. Should I pre-emptively replace any of the components? Check valves, hoses, V3 components, etc.? What would you do if you just bought a used kit?

2. Any "new" additional mods I should consider doing? I was just reading about the Racor PS 120 Pre filters (do we need the 1/2" or 3/8"? Looks like 1/2" is PS120-1 and the 3/8" is PS120-2. I don't remember what size the fuel hose is), thinking about adding one of those. Also just read about the toggle switch to turn off the diesel pump as a fail safe, but couldn't find the write up. Anything else I've missed? My kit has been working flawlessly after the Scorpion upgrade, just didn't know if there are any other additions that I've missed! Maybe ball valves at the coolant Tee to turn off the heat to the V3? I put one on mine, but found I never turn it off anyway. Anybody have a good source for 5/8" Tees with a ball valve on one side?

3. Anything else I'm missing, or just forgetting about?

Thanks! I'm excited to have another veggie truck in the driveway!
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:18 AM
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Also wondering if there are any new install tips or tricks since I've done the last one a few years ago. The engine fittings always take me forever!
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:00 AM
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Hawaiian Diesel Hawaiian Diesel is offline
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If you're vegging a 7.3, AzDave has a trick check valve relocation kit.

http://www.veggiegarage.com/products...locate_Kit.php

I have one, and will be glad if any of my check valves fail. Quick easy change.

I'd also dismantle and clean it.
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Last edited by Hawaiian Diesel; 11-18-2015 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawaiian Diesel View Post
If you're vegging a 7.3, AzDave has a trick check valve relocation kit.

http://www.veggiegarage.com/products...locate_Kit.php

I have one, and will be glad if any of my check valves fail. Quick easy change.

I'd also dismantle and clean it.
Thanks for the advice. I was just at his site checking those out! It is a 7.3, should have mentioned that. With his check valve relocation kit you just need to remove the existing hard fuel lines, install the check valves on the fuel bowl, and attach the hoses?
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:32 PM
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Yes that is all. I recommend removing Diesel fuel bowl for cleaning when installing the fittings. But some do it without removing the fuel bowl. I also include the Viton sleeves for the intake and return. Plus I am avail for help on the phone if needed. Email me at dave@veggiegarage.com and I will give you my support cell phone number. I have manifold check valves and purge valve cartridges if needed. Dave
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzDave View Post
Yes that is all. I recommend removing Diesel fuel bowl for cleaning when installing the fittings. But some do it without removing the fuel bowl. I also include the Viton sleeves for the intake and return. Plus I am avail for help on the phone if needed. Email me at dave@veggiegarage.com and I will give you my support cell phone number. I have manifold check valves and purge valve cartridges if needed. Dave
Any other recommendations?
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:56 PM
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Pull purge and check valves and prescreen and pressure regulator. IF everything looks clean go for it. If not remove everything from the V3 and flush with brake clean and compressed air until clean. You want to start with a clean manifold.
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:23 AM
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Definitely get Dave's engine fittings kit.

I also recommend installing a valve on the coolant inlet to the V3, so you can shut off heat to the VO loop if you aren't burning VO.

Use brass tee's for the coolant tie-in.

Ditch the electric blanket filter heater. I use aux coolant pump and a copper coolant wrap on filter for all of my conversions. This provides waaaay more heat than the e-blanket ever could and doesn't tax the electrical system.


I also customize F650 dashes to house the V3 switches, SSB display, fuel pressure and fuel level gauges. I think Dave also has some really nice labeled switches now!



The Racor PS120-2 makes a great pre-filter that has a ridiculous amount of dirt-holding capacity and is MUCH easier to service than the V3 pre-screen.
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzDave View Post
Pull purge and check valves and prescreen and pressure regulator. IF everything looks clean go for it. If not remove everything from the V3 and flush with brake clean and compressed air until clean. You want to start with a clean manifold.
Thanks Dave. I'll be calling you soon for some bits and pieces!
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyskijason View Post
Definitely get Dave's engine fittings kit.

I also recommend installing a valve on the coolant inlet to the V3, so you can shut off heat to the VO loop if you aren't burning VO.

Use brass tee's for the coolant tie-in.

Ditch the electric blanket filter heater. I use aux coolant pump and a copper coolant wrap on filter for all of my conversions. This provides waaaay more heat than the e-blanket ever could and doesn't tax the electrical system.

I also customize F650 dashes to house the V3 switches, SSB display, fuel pressure and fuel level gauges. I think Dave also has some really nice labeled switches now!

The Racor PS120-2 makes a great pre-filter that has a ridiculous amount of dirt-holding capacity and is MUCH easier to service than the V3 pre-screen.
Thanks Jason! I tried to PM you, but your inbox is full. I still have your cell number so I'll text you? Hoping to buy 2 of the copper filter heaters if you still are selling them!
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