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  #1  
Old 08-07-2016, 05:04 AM
Double_Eh Double_Eh is offline
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Thumbs up Help me buy a truck.

Longtime listener first time caller here...

Greetings everyone. I'm looking at diving back into the veggie truck scene. Driving a bombproof subaru and getting great gas mileage has just become too easy. So I figure what better way to make life more difficult than to go back to driving an expensive, high-maintenace truck running on someone else's garbage.

I'm looking at three different trucks right now:
1. 2001 Dodge 2500, extended cab, short box, 5sp manual, 4x4, 24v 5.9 Cummins. 250k miles, rebuilt transmission, $8500.

2. 1999 F250, ext cab, short box, 6sp manual, 4x4, 7.3 powerstroke. 220k miles, $7000

3. 1996 F250, ext cab, long box, 5sp manual, 4x4, 7.3 powerstroke. 160k miles!! Looks brand new, $6900

A little background:
I did my own plantdrive 2-tank SVO conversion to an old 6.9 IDI F250 and ran around 20k miles on WVO back in the veggie oil heyday. Sold that truck and ran B100 in a 1995 F250 powerstroke for a few years. Sold that truck and have put 120k amazingly uneventful miles on my subaru since.

I currently live in the high mountains of Colorado, so 4x4 is a must and a manual transmission is a big preference of mine. It does get very cold here at night, but most of my mileage comes from bi-monthly trips down to the Front Range (Denver area), a 4-5 hour drive each way. Plenty of time to warm up the engine and the oil.

So my questions:
1. If you were buying a used truck specifically to convert to SVO which would you choose? I can provide more info on each as needed.

2. I'm pretty familiar with Fords but not Dodges. How does the reliability, maintenance cost, and MPG compare? Any other differences I should know about?

3. Is this a bad idea? Should I just get another subaru and plan on 100k more, practical, reliable, uneventful, if slightly boring miles?
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2016, 11:51 AM
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2000XLIFTED 2000XLIFTED is offline
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Nothing is easier to covert and quicker to purge than a 99+ 7.3

My vote is to stay with what you already know!
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Y2K Excursion 4X4 limited 7.3, 6" lift, 35" Rubbers, Jonathan Tuned, Single Shots, 38R, DI Up-Pipes, CoolingMist Vari-Cool Water/Meth Injection, Aftermarket Intake, 5 Isspro Gauges, Vegistroke V3, 30 Gal Frame Mounted Tank, GOT GREASE?


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  #3  
Old 08-07-2016, 12:25 PM
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greaseguy greaseguy is offline
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Default Lots of ford fans in the forum

Check if the 99 f250 is an early or late 99. My early 99 has 389,000 and still running strong. Early 99 has powerstroke badge on the front fender late 99 has badge on the door. I have read early 99 has forged Pistons. The super duty trucks are nice solid long lasting trucks that require expensive maintenance but those costs are off set by free fuel.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:35 PM
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Tampa450 Tampa450 is offline
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The forged rods are what everybody gets excited about. They were in something like 99-01 7.3's. You can look up online how to tell for sure by the serial # on the motor.

Early 99's have smaller turbo intake and injectors than 99+
They also have a 15* hpop vs a 17* in the later.

Id still buy one if it was a good deal tho. I don't plan on ever going crazy with power on any truck I buy, so I never even really consider if they are forged or PMR when I'm looking at trucks. That's just me tho.
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  #5  
Old 08-07-2016, 07:16 PM
Double_Eh Double_Eh is offline
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Any other thoughts on pre-99 vs 99.5 and later 7.3s? I believe the 99 I'm looking at is an early 99 and has a ZF6 manual. There is another 99 F350 short box, 5sp which I'm pretty sure is the 99.5 motor.

I won't be doing a lot of towing, mainly highway miles and a little tooling around on back roads and jeep roads in the mountains. Comfort, reliability, and longevity are more important to me than outright performance. Any tuning or mods would probably be more focused on improving mpgs than anything else.

I loved my 95 OBS, wish I still had it.
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  #6  
Old 08-07-2016, 09:30 PM
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greaseguy greaseguy is offline
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Default Early 99

Jut had some work done on my early 99 and shop kept ordering wrong parts because the early 99 have some one year only parts. The late 99-03 parts I think are pretty interchangeable. I am a fan of the superdutys more than the obs myself. My Wvo experience has been pretty painless with superdutys. I have a v3 in one and a homemade set up in the other and both work well. V3 is pretty flawless but when things go wrong you can only use specific parts. My home made set up has more problems but most parts can be purchased anywhere. He superdutys are pretty tough trucks but when thing go wrong it gets expensive.

I have Subaru and some days consider just driving the Subaru especially if you were going to be driving a nice wrx Sti but still not the same as driving in a diesel running on Wvo

Any of the superdutys will treat you well if they were treated well
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2016, 02:10 PM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
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Beautifully written post.

The '99 PSD is by far the best of your options and that price is fair if its in good condition.

Early vs Late '99 - don't worry about it. The biggest heartburn with E99 is the up-pipes are expensive to replace. Both E99 and L99 have the same power, mpg and reliability. (in spite of minor injector and turbo differences)

Things to consider:

Open the air filter box and look toward the turbo. Some oil beyond the CCV inlet is normal. Any dirt or 'gritty' in that oil is a bad sign. These filters are notoriously installed wrong and the boxes are often broken - letting engine-killing dirt get past. If the filter box is broken or missing tabs, $7k is not a good deal IMHO.

If the filter checks out OK, remove the oil filler cap while the engine is running and observe blow-by. A steady mist of oil vapor is normal. 'Puffing' or pressure here is a bad sign. Flip the cap upside down and rest on the filler opening. If it is being pushed off, that's bad.

You should be able to shift gears without ever 'grinding'. These transmissions are just over $2k to rebuild. A good clutch kit is $800. The factory pilot bearing is a total POS and should be replaced ASAP. I have oilite bronze bushings made for all the trucks I work on.

Make sure there is no oil or fuel in the coolant.

There should be no oil leaks. Most leaks are not serious, but use them when negotiating!! The exception would be a rusted-through oil pan.

If the SES light is on, scan it and find out why. If you have access to a scan tool that does the on-board diagnostics (Buzz Test, CCT, KOER, GP test, etc) then that is a bonus!!

Let us know if you have more questions and look forward to seeing you racking up the greasy smile-miles again soon!!
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2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. V3, AIS intake, BTS trans & tunes - 120k VO miles
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2016, 05:00 AM
Double_Eh Double_Eh is offline
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Thanks everyone! This is exactly the kind of info I've been looking for. Work is catching up to me right now and the 96 has been sold. But I'm hoping to check out the 99 this weekend. I'll keep everyone posted...
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2018, 08:23 PM
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deepfriedpiston deepfriedpiston is offline
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Default 2002 7.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000XLIFTED View Post
Nothing is easier to covert and quicker to purge than a 99+ 7.3

My vote is to stay with what you already know!
I have a 2002 7.3 F 350
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  #10  
Old 03-25-2019, 11:53 AM
DanielAdams DanielAdams is offline
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The threads that are here, they are all there for essay writting services and there is nothing that can be done about it. Please tell me what are people doing and how they are doing it too?
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