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Old 03-09-2013, 08:50 PM
Woodturner Nate Woodturner Nate is offline
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Default OBS DIY questions

On my 1996 powerstroke, I'm doing my efuel before my full conversion next month. I'm doing a DIY setup, ideas borrowed from lots of sources. 2 SEPARATE side by side systems, 2 pumps. Both systems will have regulated returns for each, but I'm confused as to how to hook up the FPR's. Typically, the OBS efuel conversions use the stock banjo for fuel IN, and the lines on the front of the engine for OUT (return). People hook up the stock return lines to the sides of a bypass style (whatever brand you buy) 3-port fuel pressure regulator, then hook up the return line on the bottom of the FPR to the stock return line. I want to use the stock Banjo for D2 input, with a check valve at the Banjo, then use the stock return outputs in the front of the heads for WVO input, with another check valve there. This way, no 3-way valves to ever leak fuel in between; I'll have a 2-way purge valve between the D2 return and the WVO input, so I can use my D2 return line pressure to purge out the FPHE and WVO pump.

Can I use a 3-port FPR inline?? Sorry if this is a dumb question. There weren't any instructions with the regulator I bought--just diagrams for what size fittings, o-rings, etc.

HELP!!!!
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:17 AM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
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The FPR's will both go before the heads and return from the FPR. The OE system is 'regulated return' - we are switching to 'deadheaded' for the simplest and most reliable VO conversion.

Like this - tank--->pre-filter--->pump--->FPR - one side of FPR is 'return-to-tank' and the other will go to the fuel filter and up to the tee to the heads. The fitting on the bottom of your FPR's is the 'return'...

Both fuel systems are plumbed this way. I suggest making new fuel lines from the front of the heads to a tee, then putting a CV on the side coming from the D2 filter. The VO-side will go from filter to CV to a tee - one side of this tee goes to the heads (stock banjo bolt) and the other side to a 12v solenoid valve and back to the VO tank. This 'purge valve' will allow you to bypass the CV on the VO-side and flush diesel thru the heads and back to the VO tank.

Instead of returning the VO to the tank, you'll want to tee it into the line from the tank to the pre-filter/pump - as close to the tank as possible. This 'looped return' should also be in TIH (like the supply line). The 'loop' adds copious amounts of heat to the VO and greatly reduces the strain on the VO pump.

Clear as mud? Can ya smell what I'm steppin' in?? Just gimme a call if ya have any questions!!!
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RIP X & Toyhauler - you served us well.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:02 AM
Woodturner Nate Woodturner Nate is offline
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You da man. I would've messaged you directly, but somehow you found it anyway....
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:09 AM
Woodturner Nate Woodturner Nate is offline
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And thanks for clearing it up--the only pics I've seen of FPR's use both "inlets" to the FPR as inlets; I figured it would work the way you described, but it would've been a shitload of work to find out--I'd have been mad if it didn't@! Feelin' a little but glad that it works. Now I gotta wait for the 2nd FPR to get here and start the hard part.....
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:12 PM
AzDave AzDave is offline
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Jason is under the hood of my OBS right now figuring this out. We will order the parts this week for preparation of designing the efuel system and how to feed the veggie in. Dave
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:18 PM
Woodturner Nate Woodturner Nate is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyskijason View Post
The FPR's will both go before the heads and return from the FPR. The OE system is 'regulated return' - we are switching to 'deadheaded' for the simplest and most reliable VO conversion.

Like this - tank--->pre-filter--->pump--->FPR - one side of FPR is 'return-to-tank' and the other will go to the fuel filter and up to the tee to the heads. The fitting on the bottom of your FPR's is the 'return'...

Both fuel systems are plumbed this way. I suggest making new fuel lines from the front of the heads to a tee, then putting a CV on the side coming from the D2 filter. The VO-side will go from filter to CV to a tee - one side of this tee goes to the heads (stock banjo bolt) and the other side to a 12v solenoid valve and back to the VO tank. This 'purge valve' will allow you to bypass the CV on the VO-side and flush diesel thru the heads and back to the VO tank.

Instead of returning the VO to the tank, you'll want to tee it into the line from the tank to the pre-filter/pump - as close to the tank as possible. This 'looped return' should also be in TIH (like the supply line). The 'loop' adds copious amounts of heat to the VO and greatly reduces the strain on the VO pump.

Clear as mud? Can ya smell what I'm steppin' in?? Just gimme a call if ya have any questions!!!



I'm going to make 1 change to what you have here; I'm going to put D2 in the stock banjo fitting, and WVO in the front of the heads. Only reason is because I can get steel fittings cheap to adapt the banjo fitting, but I'm worried about them creating poly. with WVO contact there. Aluminum adapters add up to about $50 to get it through the Banjo, and about half that to run through a tee into the front of the heads.

**EDIT***maybe it isn't so cheap to do the front head aluminum instead of steel. DOH!!

Anyone know why the heck the SD trucks have one side of the banjo to the front of one head and the other side to the back of the other head?? I haven't seen this in person, and I may be totally crazy, but I've seen other people's schematics and seen that this is the case in multiple drawings. What a PITA to work on.

Last edited by Woodturner Nate; 03-12-2013 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:36 AM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
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Yes, I agree using the banjo and stock steel lines for diesel is better... I'd love to just replace those lines with PTFE-lined SS braided hose, but that pass-side rear looks like a MAJOR pita!!!!!!!

Use hose like this with JIC swivel ends to make your front lines with. You can get them made at a local hose shop as well. Be sure to slip vinyl hose or similar over these hoses - they WILL wear a hole in anything they touch.

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...p/r14-hose.htm

Don't use aluminum or steel 'hard' lines here.
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2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. V3, AIS intake, BTS trans & tunes - 120k VO miles
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RIP X & Toyhauler - you served us well.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:54 AM
AzDave AzDave is offline
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Jason....come home...leave the shop...I have the OBS banjo bolt from Ford to take to the machinist to build the check valve manifold.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:23 PM
Woodturner Nate Woodturner Nate is offline
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Just wanted to give Jason & Dave big props! My system has been up and running for a while; a few little bugs to work out, but the truck is running great.

I got a bad fuel pressure sending unit from Isspro, but they sent me out a new one right away. New sensor works great. The "bad" one separated between the plastic and brass components while I was getting the pressure dialed in. Can you say, "DIESEL FOUNTAIN"???? Not good. Very not good. After cleaning it up, no problems, no leaks.


Now came the learning lesson. Though many people on different forums give different methods of increasing the diesel fuel pressure going to the injectors, my truck didn't like the increased pressure. I don't know if it is the age or condition of my injector o-rings, or other issue, but after several days of acting just fine and seeming to have slightly better throttle response, without warning the truck started to produce some whitish blue smoke, and ran REALLY rough. I thought maybe I hadn't filtered the wvo enough, and got really paranoid. I switched back to diesel, but it still ran rough as hell. And, to top it off, I was trying to show off my skills to my lady. She understood that I couldn't know there would be a problem, but I felt D U M B. Embarrassing AAA tow truck ride home.......

I went over everything Funny thing was, no trouble codes. I checked everything, and after cleaning a bit more of the engine, I realized the fuel gauge was wrong. It was sort of just "stuck" in the 60 psi spot, but showed nearly 80psi when I got back in the cab. After backing the pressure down to about 55psi, the truck started right up, and acted fine. It is POSSIBLE that while I was checking all the connections, I inadvertently re-connected something that had gotten loose, but I really doubt it. I went over everything at least twice before realizing the fuel pressure was way too high. And, no codes ever on the computer.

A new set of injectors is in my near future, but not immediately necessary. I still gotta check the crankcase oil to make sure no WVO got in there. BAAAD news if it did.

Last edited by Woodturner Nate; 06-16-2013 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:39 PM
AzDave AzDave is offline
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Lets see some photos
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