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  #1  
Old 09-11-2015, 04:50 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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Default V3 Removal from F250

I recently experienced a problem with my V3 veggiestroke system and decided to remove the unit for maintenance and repairs. The V3 unit was put in by an installer so other than changing the filter and removing a leaking pressure sensor did not have much direct experience with it. It took me a few days (including store trips and online orders) to complete what is probably a 1-2 hour job. So here is my write up of the straight forward steps to remove the physical V3 unit from your vehicle (F250 in my case).



Parts
Bypass clip that came with your V3
(2) 3/8" JIC plugs,
(1) 1/4" JIC plug,
(2) 5/8" heater hose connectors (with hose clamps)*
(1) length of 5/8" heater hose (18 inches should work)
(1) gallon of antifreeze
zip ties
plastic bag
WD-40 (i just spent 5 minutes deciding if this should go under parts or tools . . .)

*note below there are a few alternatives for the coolant connection disconnect. These parts and the technique below were easiest for me.
Also verify the size of coolant hose running back to your unit. adjust parts accordingly.



Tools
Small adjustable wrench
Slot head screw driver
(2) vice grips
1/2" rachet
(2) 11/16" or 17mm open end wrench
PVC pipe cutter or box cutter with 2 in blade
2 gallon bucket that fits under your vehicle
small container to catch wvo and diesel draining


Last edited by ccis2cunning; 09-11-2015 at 04:55 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-11-2015, 04:57 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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STEP 1: filter removal
Nothing special here, you already do this. remove the heating jacket from the filter. I put a pair of vice grips on the 3/8" fuel line that goes forward to the engine and the feed line from the wvo tank. This is to minimize full line drainage. Tilt the V3 unit as allows to maximize drainage.





STEP 2: Front Fuel line disconnect
The front connect (V3 to engine) is the easiest, have a 3/8" JIC plug and your small container to catch diesel ready and use the small adjustable wrench or one of the open ended wrenches to remove the hose connection on the bottom of the front of the unit. Quickly plug and tighten. Use both open end wrenches to tighten for no leaks. expect continous drips from the unit here.

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Old 09-11-2015, 05:00 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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Step 3: RearFuel line(s) disconnect
The rear connect (tank to V3) is blocked a bit by the coolant out hose. Loosen and slide the coolant hose clamp if it blocks your access to the 3/8" line. Again have a 3/8" JIC plug and your small container to catch diesel ready and use the small adjustable wrench or one of the open ended wrenches to remove the hose connection on the top center of the rear of the unit. Quickly plug and tighten. Use both open end wrenches to tighten for no leaks. expect continous drips from the unit here.

Also at the rear is the is the 1/4" return line, the lowest connect. It is easy to reach, use the adjustable wrencha and follow the previous fuel line instructions.



Step 4: Wire Harness disconnect
If you did not unclip the filter heater in step 1 do so now and set it asside. 3 more clips (pump, temp switch and pressure switch) should come off easy. ** put your bypass clip onto the connector (the only 3 prong one) to ensure your OEM fuel pump functions**
A connector goes to the purge solenoid. It may require needle nose to pull this out.

At this point you have 1 or 2 wires connected. IF you have a pressure gauge at the dash the pressure sensor is likely mounted off the top of the unit and one of the 'spare' wires (yellow or green) is connected to it. Remove this wire now. The ground wire is the final connection and is located at the front of the unit. See it above in the step 2 photo.

Double check you have put the bypass clip on, wrap the wires into a plastic bag and zip tie them up and away.

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Old 09-11-2015, 05:02 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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Step 5: Coolant lines disconnect
I can think of 4 ways this can happen:
1) during install 3way T-valves were used with a built in bypass. not in my case. I would consider this mod if i was removing the unit more often.
2) Use a 1" open end wrench and unscrew fitting from the V3. not in my case. the front connector would not budge, the rear connector kept twisting the hose. since the coolant hoses and fuel hoses are bundled together the twisting was limited to 6" of hose and i was concerned with hose damage.
3) Remove hose clamps and pull hose off of connectors. not in my case. I was starting to wreck the hose ends.
4) I chose to cut the hoses about 3" from the connectors and patch in with a hose connector.

Before Cutting, have your bucket ready to catch the coolant. Expect 1-2 gallons. Use caution, animals love to lick this stuff up and it is toxic for them.
Also,if you want to reuse the coolant, have a funnel and cheesecloth or other filter medium as some dirt is bound to get into the bucket. Repeat for the back hose and use your connectors and hose length to close the connection.

Refill your coolant.
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Old 09-11-2015, 05:04 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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Step 6: Test and zip tie





Before starting bleed air from the fuel system (for my '99 F250 I turn key to full on, hold for a count of 20, repeat this 4-5 times). Start the vehicle and test for leaks. Tighten everything. Shut off the vehicle.
Zip tie your hoses and electrical items and you are done with the removal.

Step 7: On the bench
This is where i am at as of this posting.



Good luck. happy greasing.
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2015, 01:29 PM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
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Congratulations! I find brake cleaner and a scrubbie pad works well for shining up the outside of these dirty manifolds. The inside is easily cleaned with brake clean and compressed air when you remove all of the components.

Here's a tip for pinching off your hoses. Slip some pieces of hose over the ends of your vise grips (or tape them generously) to avoid damaging the fuel and coolant hoses.

Is there enough slack in your coolant hoses to re-connect? Looks like you may need to run new coolant hoses when you put this back together. 7.3's use 5/8" coolant hose and 6.0's use 3/4" coolant hose. I would also strongly advise installing a valve (or at least pinching off the supply hose) so you are not cooking the oil in the VO tank while the system is out/off. In fact, adding several gallons of diesel to the VO tank would not be a bad idea.

I guess if it's not in the instructions, even 'installers' don't install a proper ground from the V3/V4 to frame... I always make a connection from the ground lug on manifold to the factory ground strap that goes from body to frame (just in front of where the manifold resides).

Feel free to ask questions if you have any concerns!
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2015, 01:39 PM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
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I would also advise you ditch the electric blanket in favor of an aux coolant pump and a copper coolant wrap. We've found the coolant wrap to be MUCH more effective at heating the filter and it eliminates the common electrical failures associated with the amp-hungry electric heater. I use the elect blanket power to run the aux coolant pump. I've built this set-up for several members here over the years.
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Old 09-11-2015, 04:54 PM
bbboomer bbboomer is offline
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Inline ball valves mounted as close as practical to the tees on the engine are all that is required. You do not need a bypass.
The ball valves are a good idea as a shut off even if you are not removing the manifold. If one of the hoses failed, got ripped off or whatever you have a method "shutting off" the leak.
They also allow you to stop coolant flow through the manifold if you are not using the system for an extended period. Closing one or both of the valves will stop the circulation through the manifold and the tees will continue to provide flow through the rest of the cooling system.
Two ball valves are not expensive and well worth the expense and trouble to install.
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:14 AM
ccis2cunning ccis2cunning is offline
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@skyskijason:
>I had used rags on pinching off the lines, I like the hose idea better and will use for the install.
>I should be good on the coolant lines as it was a straight cut and the connectors add about 4mm of additional length.
>The ground went up to the body above the V3. I know the braided ground strap you are referring to and will reroute to there.
>An aux coolant pump sounds intriguing (if i have funds left over after pump replace), not so much for the heating efficiency (90* for the last week in Los Angeles) but for less amps. is this the best source?

@bbboomer
>my thinking was primarily driven by all the coolant dumping into the bucket and i had not considered (as both you and Jason point out) cooking the oil.
I will definitely consider this during my reinstall.

Now to cleaning and replacing the fass.

thanks again for the input.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:15 AM
brobrad brobrad is offline
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[QUOTE
Now to cleaning and replacing the fass.
[/quote]

Are you going Scorpion or Rebuild on the pump replacement?
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