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Old 04-28-2012, 02:55 AM
Grease Squirrel's Avatar
Grease Squirrel Grease Squirrel is offline
Sort of idiot WVO nut cas
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Default Stripped threads on V3 block and Mega Saga

I wanted to share my saga so that other can learn from my mistakes plus maybe I've raised by McGyver rating by 1/2 a point.
This started about 10 days ago where I was getting a flashing light in all three switch positions (auto, off, manual). Change the filter and pre-screen was nasty. Still had the problem plus we were getting about 10 mpg on diesel and veggie tank was filling up. I have been here before and it has not been fun.
Here is what I have done to get system back up and running. The first item on this list had been nagging me for a while and I wanted to eliminate it from the list of vehicle problems.

0) My ignition switch was bad and did not fully turn off (stop contacts from touching) when key was in off position. I changed out switch for a new Ford OEM one. This works way better now.
1) Check valve was stuck open and did'nt move easily. Cleaned as best as possible in parts cleaner with a toothbrush. New one is on order.
2) Switching solenoid had the upper rubber o-rings gone. I replaced with some plain black rubber rings and get a whole new solenoid.
3) 15 amp pump fuse was blown due to first two items and trying to push against the diesel pump.
4) I was scared by the V3 system and how complex it is electronically.
5) When I pulled the pump off to check on KOEO manual I noticed that two of the hex screws as they were close to bottom I could keep going and found I have stripped the threads in the block. Note I am on my 5'th pump and have been running a Scorpion for 12 months w/o issue (This was a good retrofit).

For the last item I have 2 options. a) Pull V3 block and tap 1 size large and then upsize the hex bolts. b) Use JB Welt and put a threaded stud in the two holes that are stripped. I have figured that b is the better option beause I do not need to tap the block. Any opinions?
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:22 AM
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ak49er ak49er is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Big Lake, Alaska
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Posts: 245

Really the best fix IMHO is to Helicoil the aluminum block with steel threads, as long as you don't use an impact on the Helicoil (of course not right?) you should have no more problems.

I did this to the cross shafts on the rear suspension skid of my snow-machine and have not had to touch them ever again.

And almost anything we make at the shop out of low grade Aluminum or something that will have bolts run in and out gets this treatment.

This does require drilling and tapping, and inserting the Helicoil, but is a much better fix than oversizing your fasteners which could put undue stress on flange connections, or using JB Weld, Metal Magic, or similar.

Napa sells kits with four inserts for a decent price, and you get to add an usually odd sized drill bit (64'ths, or even a letter or number drill) and tap to your tool box when you are finished.

Just totally shooting from the hip here, but I have to wonder if your ignition switch didn't do weird things to your circuitry leading to or adding to any of the above symptoms.
2005 F250 SD 6.0 Short Bed 4 DR 4x4 A/T
Bullet Proof Diesel Cold Weather W/EGR Kit 50,000m
1983 Mercedes-Benz 300SD TD FRYBRID Kit
"C.Keppner" Beckett AFG Well-McLain Boiler on WVO
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:40 PM
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skyskijason skyskijason is offline
Gettin Greasy
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What he said!!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
2001 F350 XLT 4x4, dually flatbed. 6637 air filter, single-shot injectors, straight-piped, BTS tunes, 200 gal main VO tank - 180k greasy miles
2000 Excursion Limited 4x4. V3, AIS intake, BTS trans & tunes - 120k VO miles authorized installer

RIP X & Toyhauler - you served us well.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:41 PM
Grease Squirrel's Avatar
Grease Squirrel Grease Squirrel is offline
Sort of idiot WVO nut cas
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Adirondacks, Upstate NY
Miles on Grease: 50k on V3,60k GreaseCar
$ Estimated Saved: 12000
MacGyver Rating: 5 to -5
Posts: 31
Default Helicoil

I have done this once before on the aluminum block for our VW Vanagon waterboxer engine with the exhaust bolts. I still was thinking the JB Weld would be better because I can fix it in place and at a later point if I wanted to Helicoil I can do it then. Thanks for the suggestion though AK49er. I think you are right about the ignition switch leading to other problems with the Vegistroke circuitry.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:52 AM
TxFordGuy TxFordGuy is offline
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Location: Bellville, TX
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Time-serts are a much better product over helicoils. Provide a much stronger hold and will not back out later when unscrewing the bolt. You can get them for a good price on ebay. We used these all the time when i worked in a machine shop. I recently used them on the exhaust threads on my VW engine in my sandrail.
2002 F-250 Lariat 4x4 CC, 4" Magnaflow SS Exhaust, Banks Ram-Air, DP-Tuner, Former BioD runner now Vegistroke V3
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:25 PM
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Mdub707 Mdub707 is offline
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I'd drill/tap myself. Seems quicker/easier than the other things you're suggesting. I certainly wouldn't JB weld a stud in there, but that's just me.
2006 F-250 6.0 4x4 SC/SB Greasin since 08/18/2010
SCT Xcal2 w/Innovative Diesel Tuning 466/772 7/19/08
Originally Posted by Snake View Post
Cause his job is to make oil and break things.
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